Apollonaire
summer 2003

A food and wine newsletter dedicated to the memory of Guillame Apollonaire (1880-1918) soldier, savante, sybarite

Dine Italian, wine Italian

Apollonaire sampled some charming Italians recently at a tasting hosted by David Grosso and Roberto Mangione, owners of Vini Italia, a local distributor. We tested eight wines - three white and five reds. We found them to be reasonably priced, straight-ahead wines that are, for the most part, not overly complex. These are wines that will go well with all kinds of food, a cheese and fruit plate, or solo as an aperitif.

Casa Brina Barbera d’Asti from Piemonte in the northwestern Italy is a bargain that shouldn’t be passed up. This was my favorite wine in the group. Round and dense, with generous black cherry, Damson plum, and anisette flavors, a soupçon of eucalyptus, and vanilla and oak in the finish. Serve it with all your favorite dishes.

The 2000 Dal Fari Schioppettino comes from Friuli Venezia Giulia in northeastern Italy. It is a medium-bodied wine with a blazing garnet color and all kinds of berry flavors set off by zesty spices. Twelve months of aging in wood provide oaky notes. Par it with hot and cold antipasti or lighter foods like grilled chicken, fish or shrimp.

The Colutta Vini Merlot is another gem of Friuli. One hundred percent Merlot, it has a bright ruby color, fragrant nose, and ripe cherry-berry flavors with earth and bacon and mineral overtones and oak in a toasty finish. Try it with dishes with red sauce, sausages, or pizza.

The 1999 Marco Cecchini Careme also from Friuli, blends 60% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 20% Refosco to produce a wine that is rich and rewarding. It has ripe cherry flavors, blueberry and violet nuances, and toasted oak in the finish. The wine is full-bodied but low in acidity. You’ll love it with grilled steaks, chops, and roasted meat.

The 2000 Casa Brina Ruchè is a Piemontese wine that is not made from Nebbiolo grapes. It is a medium-body effort with soft, integrated tannins and a delicate balance. The wine has a big, aromatic nose, fruit forward cherry and plum flavors, and blood orange and violet accents, followed by a silken finish. Match it with spicy Thai food and other hot dishes from Pacific Rim.